2025 Pinot Gris

25 September 2025. Words by YGOW. Whether you call it by its French or Italian name, pinot gris/grigio has become a remarkable success story in Australia. First emerging as an alternative to both the too-opulent chardonnays of the ’90s and the ‘sauvalanche’ of exuberantly fruity New Zealand sauvignon blanc that swiftly followed, pinot gris/grigio is now a firmly entrenched part of the Australian wine landscape – currently clocking in at third place on the league chart of white grape varieties. It can also be made into a dazzling array of styles, from crisp and fresh to luscious and full-bodied, not to mention cherry-red skin-contact wines. With the variety going from strength to strength here in Australia, we felt it was time to take its pulse with another Deep Dive. We gathered every example of Australian pinot gris or pinot grigio (including wines with some degree of skin contact) that we could find and set our expert panel the task of finding the wines that compelled the most. All wines were tasted blind, and each panellist named their top six wines. Our panel: Kathleen Quealy, proprietor and winemaker, Quealy Winemakers; Mike Aylward, proprietor and winemaker, Ocean Eight; Chris Strickland, winemaker, Foxey’s Hangout; Iona Baker, sales representative, Trembath & Taylor; Clarissa Lorenzato, sommelier and wine merchant, l’Enoteca at Mercato Centrale; Tristan Jallais, proprietor and wine merchant, Natural Science Wine & Liquor; Marie Grasset, restaurant manager and wine buyer, Barragunda Dining; Hayley Farquar, wine merchant and sommelier, City Wine Shop. The top wines 2024 Pizzini ‘Attento’ Pinot Grigio, King Valley $55 RRP Baker and Jallais both selected this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Baker found “the nose is very savoury, almost hiding to start: raw almonds with riper peaches and pear, a hint of thyme leaf and a wet clay–like edge. The palate is delicately pretty with mandarin juice and rind, almonds and tiger lily flowers that persisted.” Jallais was enthusiastic: “This immediately launched itself at me, ticking so many boxes just on the rich and opulent nose alone. A beautiful gold colour – this absolutely glistens. A nice dash of residual sugar on this wine, plus hints of honey, equals magic. This is toasty and plush: I get some apricot and ginger here, and it feels unctuous and rich in the mouth. It tastes like there’s likely some Botrytis fruit in there and I’m all for it. Opulent, moreish, and excellent – I’m quite into this.” 2025 Hesketh Wines Pinot Gris, Adelaide Hills $25 RRP Strickland chose this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “On the nose, a lovely bouquet leaping out of the glass: layers of florals, jasmine, elderflower, poached pear, spice, cinnamon through to quince paste,” he described. “Builds in the mouth. Pure fruit expression – Nashi pear and spice – and great complexity. A sweetness on the finish makes it a great food pairing. An intensely aromatic expression of pinot gris: pear fruits supported with layers of florals and spice. Sublime mouthfeel, the Nashi pear at the front, with a mid-palate of slippery phenolic texture, into a hint of sweetness to finish. A classic example of pinot gris style that will pair with many intensely aromatic Asian cuisines.” 2024 Delatite Pinot Gris, Upper Goulburn $32 RRP Grasset and Aylward both included this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Grasset noted it was “bursting with aromas of stone fruit like ripe pear, apricot and a whisper of honeysuckle. This pinot gris is textured with a gentle oiliness. Its lingering finish would pair beautifully with autumn roast chicken or a creamy pumpkin risotto.” Aylward called it “a beautifully complete and balanced wine, showing the classic varietal characters of pinot gris. Delicate aromas of rose petals and pears are lifted by a touch of residual sugar, which integrates seamlessly with clean acidity and generous palate weight. The residual sweetness softens any sour edges, and extends the wine’s length, leaving a textured and harmonious finish. My top pick of the tasting for its varietal expression and overall balance.” 2025 Tahbilk Pinot Gris, Nagambie Lakes $22 RRP Strickland and Lorenzato both had this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Strickland described “brown pear, squash, nutty, fennel and cooking spice. Nutty richness and great acid drive, a long and persistent finish. Moreish and complex with acid length and a hint of sweetness on the finish. What I refer to as an onion wine – lots of layers. A great food wine with acidity and sweetness playing off each other to give depth and the aromatics to go along with highly flavoursome and spicy food.” Lorenzato found it “playful right from the start. Think caramelised citrus peel and sugared mandarins – sweet, candied citrus that feels both fun and a little cheeky. There’s a faint herbal lift, like a pinch of marjoram rubbed between your fingers, adding an edge to all that fruit brightness. In the mouth it’s soft and approachable, almost creamy at first, but quickly snaps back with a crisp, mineral bite. This is the kind of wine that would shine with spicy Asian dishes, or as a talking-point pour at a dinner party – sweet meets savoury, with a wink of mischief.” 2024 Latta Vino ‘Ex Nihilo’ Pinot Gris, Henty $34 RRP Lorenzato, Baker, and Jallais all featured this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Lorenzato was captivated by the colour: “What a colour – this wine practically glows, a blazing, electric orange that catches the light like stained glass. The aromas are wild and smoky. There’s an earthy, slightly ashy edge that feels raw and elemental. On the palate it shows its softer side, with juicy grilled orange and a sprinkle of herbs adding flavour and freshness. It may not be the most complex wine in the room, but it’s unique, and absolutely memorable.” Baker noted “a lightly blush rose colour – this is a lovely example of Pinot Grigio made with skin contact. It shows mealy aromas, followed by raspberries, orange peel and terracotta-like tannins. Fruity and floral on the palate with oranges, raspberries, cherries, Pink Lady apples and rose petals, alongside a light grainy mouthfeel.” Jallais found “a nice deep blush colour on this wine – very pretty and inviting. Probably some sensible amount of skin contact with just the right amount of tannin, grip and structure. This felt really round in the mouth, with soft, juicy edges – think nectarine with a splash of citrus, sprinkled with sweet baking spice. This felt like standing in a kitchen with fresh bread and simple cake cooling down on a tray. All in all this is a very handsome skinsy gris that’s complex but utterly chuggable.” 2024 Italian Plastic ‘Blush’ Ramato Pinot Grigio, South Australia $25 RRP Lorenzato and Farquar both selected this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Lorenzato said, “this one shows off its natural side with a gentle cloudiness and that glowing amber-orange hue. The nose is all about citrus in bloom – fragrant orange blossom layered with the tangy punch of blood orange. Take a sip and it’s downright juicy, bursting with freshness and energy. There’s a subtle yeasty note tucked in, more like the savoury edge of fresh sourdough crust than anything distracting. It’s lively, fun, and deliciously moreish – a wine that begs to be poured in the middle of a long, lazy lunch outdoors.” Farquar was equally enthusiastic: “Trying to make sense of my notes for this wine are difficult, but my excitement leaps off the page. This wine had me at ‘hello’. The bright salmon colour in the glass with the tinge of orange, the delicate blossom notes on the nose, paired with the classic savoury element I typically see from skin contact – this wine did not leave me wanting. Big bright acidity goes toe-to-toe with a rich and textured palate. In my notes I used the word ‘knockout’ – which is a major compliment after so many other wines.” 2025 Leura Park ‘Twenty-Five d’Gris’ Pinot Gris, Geelong $45 RRP Grasset and Quealy both chose this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Grasset found it “glowing deep gold in the glass. This wine greets with white jasmine flowers, almond blossoms, peach, and a spark of grapefruit. On the palate it feels generous yet fresh, unfolding slowly into a graceful, lingering finish that invites another sip. This wine is calling for pan-fried snapper with citrus butter.” Quealy noted “smells of pears, brine, wild honey, delicate pink fruits. The palate is saline. That sensation of mineral salt and gossamer layers of illusory sweetness that is cool and soothing. Good length of flavour assisted with finest mote of tannin, barely brushed with acidity, and finishing cool and slippery.” 2025 David Hook Pinot Grigio, Hunter Valley $20 RRP Quealy included this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “The aroma immediately entices with dark golden honey, sunflowers, and a fine walnut oil,” she described. “Has a lovely luxe palate coated with fine spice, and a generous middle-palate filled with complexity. Fine tannin and spice caress the mouth. Finish is cool, fine, and leaves me longing for more.” 2025 Mr. Mick by Tim Adams Pinot Grigio, South Australia $19 RRP Lorenzato chose this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “This wine bursts open with the zing of fresh grapefruit – think of the juiciest, ruby-pink pulp dripping down your fingers,” she described. “A cool flicker of mint and a squeeze of lime keep things lively, while a hint of tropical fruit sweetness softens the edges. On the palate, the grapefruit sails right through, crisp and refreshing, with a subtle salty note – it made me think of pink sea salt on the rim of a Margarita glass. Medium-bodied, yet feather-light in feel, it glides across the tongue with softness and ease. Perfect with a plate of prawns fresh off the barbecue or just a bowl of salted crisps in good company.” 2024 MDI Pinot Grigio, Murray Darling $22 RRP Baker had this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “An appealing golden colour with some nice viscosity/legs coating the glass,” she observed. “Attractive aromatics of orange blossom, white pepper spice, macadamia nut, apricot kernel and hints of fresh honeycomb. The palate stands out – lovely, rounded, multi-layered and silky, with lively refreshing nectarine mingled together with chalky minerality, fresh rose petals, and leatherwood honey.” 2025 Trentham Estate Pinot Gris, Murray Darling $18 RRP Strickland and Aylward both selected this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Strickland found “guava, white florals, daffodil, light stone fruit, white nectarine, nashi pear and nutmeg supporting. A sweet-sour acid tension gives a nice depth to the palate. An intense aromatic profile supported with a decisive acid drive, with a hint of sweetness to finish it off. A richer style of pinot gris, edging into the tropical, with a depth on the nose that is working well to keep the richness in check.” Aylward described “an elegant gris style with aromas of rose petal and blossom. The palate has ample weight and finishes clean and fresh, supported by bright acidity. This is a versatile wine that would shine alongside Thai cuisine, with enough structure to complement chilli spice. A classic, food-friendly pinot gris.” 2025 First Drop ‘Endless Summer’ Pinot Grigio, Adelaide Hills $28 RRP Lorenzato featured this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “Refreshing right from the first sniff – a cool wave of mint and eucalyptus, like cracking open one of those Italian orange-and-eucalyptus throat candies,” she noted. “It’s citrus galore, but not just the juicy flesh – more like zest and peel, with that slightly bitter, tangy twist that makes your mouth water. On the palate it’s vibrant and bright. The silky texture gives it an elegant ease, making each sip slide down smoothly. Another great wine in a spritzy, summery mood – crisp, light on its feet, and seriously easy to drink. Best poured chilled on a balcony with a plate of olives and some good company.” 2024 Hesketh Wines ‘Rules of Engagement’ Pinot Grigio, Limestone Coast $16 RRP Quealy selected this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “The aroma is delicate, almost gilded, with luscious aromas of raisin, spice, cocoa, and honey,” she described. “A dignified, golden aroma of a farmhouse table spread with delicious ingredients. The palate is beautiful, lithe and long. The middle palate is rose petal gossamer, with an enchanting tannic profile, fine and chewy. Finishes with traces of honey.” 2024 Gapsted Estate ‘High Country’ Pinot Gris, Alpine Valleys $28 RRP Grasset and Strickland both had this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Grasset said, “at first sight this wine is quite shy on the nose, however it surprises on the palate with juicy, well-balanced fruit and lively acidity. Smooth and refreshing, I would be drinking this wine with fresh goat’s cheese on a summer day.” Strickland noted “Nashi pear, cinnamon, quince and elderflower. Layers of fruit and spice working together well to create a seamless nose. Nice intensity and drive – very good wine. Drier and more linear than others, but nice and complex. I found this a refreshing wine – the crunchy acid/phenolic interplay is well-executed.” 2024 Weathercraft Pinot Gris, King Valley $38 RRP Strickland chose this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “An outstanding aromatic example of pinot gris,” he observed. “Super-intense pear and lychee with hazelnut. Focused acidity and some nice phenolic texture mid-palate. A creamy undertone carries through the length of the wine, giving depth. A great varietal example – such purity and intensity of fruit, with enough supporting complexity from the nutty elements. A rich and textured palate gives a layer of interest to an otherwise long and linear, acid-driven wine. This wine makes me want to sit by the fire with a nice piece of cheddar and some nuts, just to watch the wine evolve in the glass. Such amazing depth in pinot gris is a rare find.” 2024 Trutta ‘Skinsy’ Pinot Gris, Bendigo $33 RRP Lorenzato included this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “Glowing like fresh-pressed blood orange juice, with a gentle haze that promises character,” she described. “The nose is all springtime gardens and citrus groves – geranium petals mingling with ripe apricot, tangy blood orange, and a twist of pink grapefruit zest. On the palate it’s a burst of citrusy refreshment, lifted by a saline edge that makes your mouth water. The tannins slip in with just enough grip to keep things interesting, cutting through the juiciness without weighing it down. It’s playful, vibrant, and versatile – equally at home with grilled seafood, a plate of charcuterie, or just a sunny afternoon picnic.” 2025 Yarran Pinot Grigio, Riverina $18 RRP Quealy chose this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “Immediate aromas of melted butter and toast, then honey, earth and that musky mossy smell of the forest floor,” she noted. “Exquisite. The cool, musk-scented palate that follows is very subtle, but it makes you long for more.” 2024 Small Victories Pinot Gris, Eden Valley $29 RRP Baker had this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “This wine is very pale lemon coloured, yet has plenty of aromatic and flavour robustness,” she observed. “More mineral- or savouriness-driven, with aromas of quartz-like stony pebbles, white almonds, fennel, and a distinct salinity – like capers and Sicilian green olives backed up with light lemon pith. The palate is both refreshing and textural – chalky again, with a white earth–like flinty edge supporting lingering lighter fruit notes of lemon pith, white nectarine, and zesty green apple.” 2024 Spring Vale Pinot Gris, Tasmania $32 RRP Aylward selected this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “This wine shows appealing lees and yeast-derived notes, bringing subtle toffee and caramel complexity,” he noted. “The added texture makes it stand out from the group, while remaining clean and approachable. More towards a richer ‘gris’ over the leaner ‘grigio’, mainly due to the barrel-ferment characters. Would be equally enjoyable with or without food — try it with Indian spiced dishes or Vietnamese spring rolls for a perfect match.” 2024 Provenance Pinot Gris, Henty $29 RRP Strickland featured this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “Williams pear and cinnamon – good intensity on the nose,” he described. “Well-balanced, showing phenolic grip at the front-palate with pears and spice that start moving into a rich mid-palate and long, acid-driven finish. A more singular, focused wine – the fruit purity in the Williams pear character is intense. A summery ‘grigio’ style that isn’t as complex as others, but makes up for it with intensity and focus.” 2024 Printhie ‘Topography’ Pinot Gris, Orange $32 RRP Jallais included this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “A very pretty blushed pink colour,” he observed. “Jasmine and rose jump to the front – it’s wonderfully aromatic without feeling like a bowl of pot pourri. Another plush wine here, but the acidity is bright like neon lights – it tingles and tingles. There is gorgeous fruit here – for me it feels like gently spiced stewed peaches – and the wine just lingers with you. Such great presence in this one. Pour this out next to something salty and fatty – that’s how dreams are made.” 2025 Foxeys Hangout ‘Lee Bros.’ Pinot Gris, Mornington Peninsula $25 RRP Grasset selected this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “A friendly, vibrant and graceful wine, this pinot gris layers ripe pear and orchard apple with a subtle almond-blossom perfume,” she noted. “Smoothly textured and long on the finish, it would pair beautifully with seafood pasta.” 2025 Allegiance ‘Emily Jane’ Pinot Grigio, Tumbarumba $35 RRP Farquar selected this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “This brought to me exactly what I was hoping to see in this tasting,” she noted. “Bright, lively, with enough texture and depth to keep me interested well beyond the first sip. Pale and clear in the glass, but unassuming this wine certainly was not. I personally enjoy when riper fruit notes still show a bit of greenery – in this case, those green notes come in the form of feijoa. Pear, green apple skins, lemon and lime – this wine shows classic orchard fruit and citrus with the hint of something more. As the wine opens in the glass, I see more underripe pineapple and feijoa, which alongside the higher acidity and the gracious creamy texture make for a delightful wine. Even as a standalone wine, this was absolutely delicious.” 2024 Pizzini ‘Pavona’ Pinot Grigio, King Valley $35 RRP Baker chose this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “Lemon-coloured. Rich, nutty, almond-driven nose, with pear and savoury ginger spice,” she observed. “The textural palate is cleansed by fresh lemon, yellow peaches, and honeysuckle blossom notes – it has a lifted delicacy which lingers.” 2025 Gunnamatta Wines Pinot Grigio, King Valley $29 RRP Quealy had this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “A really good wine, showing golden honey, toasty oak, and a delicate string of spice – clove, star anise, cinnamon,” she described. “The palate is concentrated – it appears to be sweet and full, with high alcohol and perhaps some unfermentable sugars, but it does not appear to be ‘sweet’ in any common or ungainly way. It would be a pleasure to have on the table with friends – a really extravagant, ambitious wine that is lip-smackingly delicious.” 2024 Mt Bera Heritage Estate ‘Dream Catcher’ Pinot Gris, Adelaide Hills $28 RRP Aylward featured this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “Vibrant acidity drives this wine, supported by hints of barrel fermentation and tropical fruit notes of pineapple and lime,” he noted. “More fruit-forward in style, leaning toward ‘pinot grigio’, yet still offering a balanced palate. Refreshing and easy to drink, it would pair beautifully served well-chilled with a Thai green chicken curry.” 2023 Amrit Pinot Gris, Mornington Peninsula $45 RRP Jallais included this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “Now this is little different – a nicely oxidative pinot gris that is a beautiful amber colour in the glass,” he observed. “This might not be for everyone, but I bloody love it. This is a beautifully savoury and nutty gris that still retains enough fruit sweetness to offset the earthiness and salinity that comes through. The sherry-like character often found in oxidative whites is here – but it’s gentle, not jarring. Pair this with a nutty, aged cheese like Long Paddock Banksia – an absolute gem.” 2025 Serafino ‘Bellissimo’ Pinot Grigio, Adelaide Hills $28 RRP Aylward chose this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “Aromatic and expressive, with lifted notes of candied pear and subtle spice,” he noted. “The palate shows stewed pear flavours, carried by good length of acidity. The finish leans toward a fresher ‘grigio’ style rather than a richer ‘gris’. While my personal preference is for the more textural, barrel-influenced styles, this wine remains a clean, refreshing quaffer that highlights the diversity of gris/grigio expressions.” 2025 Dal Zotto Pinot Grigio, King Valley $22 RRP Grasset had this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “Delicate white flowers, hints of jasmine, and ripe pear perfumes,” she described. “Gentle and balanced on the palate – nothing is overpowering, allowing each flavour to shine. Its clean, lingering finish makes it a perfect companion for a tataki beef salad – leaving a sense of refined simplicity and pleasure.” 2025 Millon ‘Estate’ Pinot Gris, Eden Valley $27 RRP Quealy selected this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “The aroma is deep and fleshy: strawberry jam, the finest breeze of wood smoke, and wild honey,” she observed. “The complexity and the tension here shows, I think, successful maturation on lees. That complex sweet-and-savoury nose and the sensation that holds all the primary fruit together is, I suspect, the result of lees reduction. It’s the depth of aroma that follows onto the palate that is so exciting – sweet and luscious, heavy and heady, showing straw, honey, and spice. It’s at once soft and amplified.” 2023 Miss Zilm Wines Pinot Gris, Clare Valley $32 RRP Jallais featured this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “Bright, fresh vibes here,” he noted. “A ton of zing and a bunch of zest – this is so refreshing. Plenty of apple and lime with long, lingering acidity. You can go back to this over and over, emptying glass after glass. This felt like a vinous version of a Peter’s icypole by the pool. Takes me back to my sixth birthday party – a pool party, no less! Great times, up until I got stung in the ear by a wasp. This wine isn’t like that stinging bit – it’s like the good bit before the stinging.” 2024 Horner Wines ‘Ash’ Pinot Grigio, Central Ranges $32 RRP Aylward included this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “A richer, more complex style with clear barrel-fermentation influence,” he described. “Aromas of orange peel and fennel introduce a palate full of energy, where zesty acidity builds into impressive length. Structured, vibrant, and moreish — a wine that invites you back for another sip. On the spectrum of lean grigio to richer, textural gris, this wine sits right in the middle.” 2024 Kooyong Wines ‘Beurrot’ Pinot Gris, Mornington Peninsula $34 RRP Jallais had this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “This was another easy go-to,” he noted. “I’m a fiend for richness in my whites, and this has it in buckets. It feels like there might be some age on this one, but I’m likely wrong. When gris looks a bit oily and viscous in the glass, you hope it’s going to have some depth – and this wine has it. A bit of soft pear on the nose. Broad and mouth-filling once you’ve had a sip – it feels dense and layered, but so moreish. You can go back for sip after sip, and still not feel full.” 2024 Josef Chromy Pinot Gris, Tasmania $35 RRP Baker selected this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “Again a very pale straw colour, with an upfront white pepper–spiced, matchstick-flinty nose, showing restrained lemon pith and apple fruit, raw white almond nuts, and wildflower honeycomb,” she observed. “The palate is mineral-driven, with a tingling quartz-pebbly quality balanced by unctuous Golden Delicious apples, guava, white nectarine, and jasmine flowers.” 2025 Ricca Terra Pinot Gris, Riverland $27 RRP Grasset chose this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “Pale orange in the glass. This wine has spent time on skins, giving it a lively, intriguing personality,” she noted. “Tangerine, stone fruit, and a whisper of spice greet the senses. Vibrant and textured in the mouth, it finishes long and inviting, suggesting that it would pair beautifully with roasted vegetables. A wine that feels adventurous, yet comforting.”

"There's a good amount of flavour here, but it's the mouth perfume that kicks the enjoyment factor up a level. Crushed fennel, pear and apple characters come across as fresh and delicious." Campbell Mattinson

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